Tubeless FAQ - All you need to know about Tubeless

Let’s talk about Tubeless – General Facts

In short: “Tubeless” means without an inner tube. This means that there is no traditional tube inside the tire anymore. Instead, the tire sits directly and airtight on the sealed rim. The air is filled into the cavity between the tire and the rim.

To prevent air from escaping (for example through spoke holes, the valve, or the tire sidewalls), a correct setup is essential.

If you think tubeless is a new invention, that’s not entirely correct — car tires have long been running without tubes as well.

In cycling, tubeless was introduced in the early 2000s when Michelin, Mavic, and Hutchinson developed the Crossmax UST system. The real breakthrough came in 2008, when Philippe Gilbert won the prestigious one-day race “Omloop Het Volk” on tubeless tires.
Since then, the system has gained popularity - particularly in mountain biking, where it has now become standard even for recreational riders. But gravel and road cycling are also increasingly adopting tubeless.

Don’t worry: assembling the necessary components is not complicated.
Most modern performance bikes are delivered prepared for tubeless use. This is called “Tubeless Ready.”

Higher puncture protection
No more snakebites (pinch flats) caused by the tube. Smaller punctures are usually automatically sealed by the sealant inside the tire. Often you won’t even notice that you had a puncture.

Higher riding comfort
Tubeless allows lower tire pressures, which increases comfort, grip, and control. This is particularly noticeable off-road.

Lower rolling resistance
Even on road or gravel, lower pressures offer advantages: the tire adapts better to the surface, reducing rolling resistance. Tests show that tubeless systems often save 2–5 watts per tire compared to butyl tubes. Compared to latex tubes the difference is smaller, but still measurable.

Less weight
Since the inner tube is eliminated, you usually save some weight in the tire system — especially relevant for performance riding. For road and gravel, this results in a noticeable weight advantage. In MTB, the weight is usually roughly similar depending on tire size, or slightly lower.

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Tubeless is worthwhile whenever you want more performance, puncture protection, comfort, and grip from your bike.

Road cycling
Tubeless offers clear advantages through lower rolling resistance and the ability to ride lower pressures without risking pinch flats.
Especially on long rides or in races, the saved watts and lower puncture risk add up.

Gravel and MTB
Here, tubeless is almost unbeatable. Lower pressures provide better traction and increased comfort, while the sealant reliably closes small holes and cuts.

Anyone who regularly rides off-road or on long tours benefits from significantly higher reliability.

When tubes may still be sufficient
For occasional riders with very narrow tires and short rides, a traditional inner tube may be sufficient.

But as soon as puncture protection, performance, and comfort matter, switching to tubeless almost always pays off.

The optimal tire pressure depends heavily on riding discipline, tire width, rider weight and terrain. The big advantage of tubeless is that you can ride with significantly less pressure than with tubes without the risk of snakebites (pinch flats). Less pressure means more comfort, more grip and better control.

On road bikes, tubeless tires are often ridden between 4.5 and 6.5 bar, depending on weight and tire width. Narrower tires and heavier riders tend to be in the upper range, wider tires and lighter riders a bit lower. In gravel, values typically range between 2.5 and 4 bar, depending on whether you ride more on asphalt or off-road. On MTB, even less pressure is possible: front often 1.2–1.6 bar, rear 1.4–2.0 bar, depending on riding style, weight and tire size.

It’s important to slowly work your way toward your personal sweet spot: start slightly lower and increase in small steps as needed until ride feel, grip and rolling resistance feel optimal. Tubeless makes this adjustment range significantly larger – and that is exactly one of the main reasons why so many riders switch.

Everything about tubeless installation

Whether you can convert your current wheel to tubeless (TL) depends on a few factors.

1. Rim / Wheel

If the rim is marked “tubeless ready” or “UST”: yes, can be converted without issues.

Rims that are not approved by the manufacturer for tubeless: in some cases conversion is possible, but often not reliably. Therefore, we explicitly advise against it.

2. Tire

Only “tubeless ready” tires are suitable. Whether your tire is “tubeless ready” can be found on the tire labeling. If you find TLR, TLR or TLE on it, it is tubeless-ready. Normal tires can be leaky.

Classic tires: running a classic tire tubeless involves several risks. For example, the tire bead itself may not have the necessary stability or may not sit firmly enough in the rim. Therefore, non-tubeless tires are often difficult to seal and are not as durable over time. For this reason, we also advise against using tires that are not intended for tubeless use.

What do I need for the conversion?

Tubeless rim tape to seal the spoke holes (often pre-installed), tubeless valves, special sealant (automatically seals small holes & pores)

Installation & care

For installation, a strong air burst (compressor or tubeless pump) is needed so the tire snaps into the rim hook. In some cases, this also works with a good standard pump, but depending on the tire it takes some practice and skill.

The sealant in your tire should be checked every 3–6 months and topped up.

In short: if your rim and tire are tubeless ready, nothing stands in the way of an easy conversion. With classic rims and tires it is sometimes possible, but comes with compromises in sealing and safety. Note: especially when it comes to safety, you should not take any risks – therefore our strongest recommendation: if tubeless, then with the proper setup.

For a tubeless tire to “sit” properly the first time, it must jump into the rim hook with a strong air burst. Whether a normal floor pump is enough depends on the tire, rim and experience.

Floor pump: sometimes possible

With modern tubeless-ready rims and tires it often works with a good floor pump and some skill.Important:

Check whether the tire sits evenly in the rim bed so that the internal pressure pushes the tire over the bead from the rim bed into the rim hook – and thus into the correct position.
Use mounting fluid (soapy water or special gel) so the tire “pops” more easily. In forums there are sometimes reports of using oil – we explicitly advise against this. Oil may seem useful at first glance, but it dries out and the tire could then slip more easily on the rim – and in the worst case even slip over the rim hook.

Pump quickly and forcefully.

Compressor or tubeless pump: the safe choice

A compressor delivers the necessary air burst immediately and almost any tire will snap into the hook.

Tubeless floor pumps with a pressure tank (e.g. Bontrager Flash Charger, milKit Tubeless Booster) are the perfect solution for home or on the go.

This makes installation clean, safe and frustration-free.

The optimal tire pressure depends heavily on riding discipline, tire width, rider weight and terrain. The big advantage of tubeless is that you can ride with significantly less pressure than with tubes without the risk of snakebites (pinch flats). Less pressure means more comfort, more grip and better control.

On road bikes, tubeless tires are often ridden between 4.5 and 6.5 bar, depending on weight and tire width. Narrower tires and heavier riders tend to be in the upper range, wider tires and lighter riders a bit lower. In gravel, values typically range between 2.5 and 4 bar, depending on whether you ride more on asphalt or off-road. On MTB, even less pressure is possible: front often 1.2–1.6 bar, rear 1.4–2.0 bar, depending on riding style, weight and tire size.

It’s important to slowly work your way toward your personal sweet spot: start slightly lower and increase in small steps as needed until ride feel, grip and rolling resistance feel optimal. Tubeless makes this adjustment range significantly larger – and that is exactly one of the main reasons why so many riders switch.

Recommended sealant amounts with milKit sealant:

Road / Gravel: 60–80 ml26” MTB: 60–80 ml
27.5” MTB: 80–100 ml
29” MTB: 100–120 ml
32” MTB: 110–140 ml

Important: these amounts should still effectively be in the tire after the first ride. New tires often absorb sealant initially, as the casing pores are not yet sealed.

Our redommendation: Fill slightly more sealant for new tires and check (and top up) after the first ride.

What you see here is a detailed step-by-step guide. Don’t worry, it’s not as complicated as it seems at first glance.

If you have a (new) wheelset where rim tape is already pre-installed, jump to step 4.

Step 1: Prepare the rim

Clean: remove old tape, dirt and oil thoroughly.

Step 2: Choosing the right rim tape:

The tubeless rim tape should be 1–2 mm wider than the rim bed. You can usually find the internal rim width on the manufacturer’s website (“Inner Width”).

Step 3: Applying the rim tape:

Important: the rim tape must be applied under strong, constant tension. Watch this video from pro rider Dan Wolfe – he shows you how it’s done!

Start about 2–3 spoke holes before the valve hole and finish your wrap about 2–3 spoke holes after the valve hole. Applying more than one layer of rim tape often causes more problems than it helps.

The beginning is the hardest part because you have to press the tape into the rim bed with one hand while pulling and unrolling with the other.

It helps a lot if you have an extra pair of hands. Otherwise, it’s recommended to sit down and clamp the wheel between your feet and knees.

Important: always make sure no wrinkles or air bubbles form. This creates a risk of leaks.

When cutting the rim tape, make sure to cut at an angle so it holds better and doesn’t peel off.

Step 4: Make the valve hole:

Pierce the rim tape carefully at the valve hole with a sharp awl or small screwdriver. A minimal hole is enough. Keep it as small as possible so the valve seals tightly.

Important: do not cut out the hole or make it too large! Otherwise leaks may occur.

Info: most leaks around the valve are caused by incorrect rim tape installation or a messy/too large valve hole.

Step 5: Install the valve

Then push the valve shaft into the valve hole. Secure the valve with the rubber seal on the inside and the knurled nut on the outside. This ensures a firm fit.

Tighten by hand, not too tight, otherwise the tape or valve base can be damaged.

Now you are ready to mount the tire.

Step 6: Mount the tire

First, set one tire bead completely into the rim.

If you are not using the milKit valve system: add sealant. With milKit, filling comes at the end.

Lift the second tire bead evenly into the rim bed. Make sure the valve base is free and between the two beads.

If needed, apply mounting fluid (e.g. soapy water) to the beads. This makes the “pop” easier, as the tire can slide more easily into the correct position on the rim.

Step 7: Inflate & seal (and add sealant)

Inflate the tire strongly (compressor or tubeless pump recommended) and wait for the typical “pop” — this is the sign the bead snaps into the rim hook and everything is seated correctly.

If you are using the milKit valve system: use the milKit syringe system (syringe, flexible rotary valve and needle) to draw up fresh sealant. The correct amount depends on the tire; you’ll find guideline values on the label of your milKit sealant. Open the valve for this and close it again when moving the system from bottle to wheel — this ensures everything stays inside and avoids a mess. Inject the sealant through the milKit valve into the pre-inflated tire (max. 1–1.5 bar). You may need to let out some air if the resistance is too high. After injecting sealant, close the rotary valve again so sealant does not flow back into the syringe. This can happen if the tire is under pressure.

Step 8: Once the sealant is inside, check that the tire bead sits evenly all around. If you have difficulty getting the bead into position, a little sealant can help.

Now shake the tire and rotate it in all directions so the sealant spreads.

Step 9: Check & rework

Check whether air is escaping anywhere (e.g. bubbles on the sidewall). Often it helps to take a short ride.

Step 10:

After the first ride, check your sealant again: many tires “drink” sealant at first → you may need to top up right away. The amount stated on the bottle should correspond to the amount that remains in the tire after the first ride.

Check and refresh sealant every 3–6 months. If you notice the sealant has hardened, replace it with fresh sealant. That way you can always be sure the sealant performs optimally.

Additional pro tips:

For stubborn tires: seat the tire first without sealant, then remove the valve core and add sealant. Or use the milKit valve system (Compact Kit / Conversion Kit).

After installation, lay the wheel horizontally for a few minutes and rotate on both sides – this ensures even sealant distribution.

With tubeless you are usually worry-free on the road, because small and often even medium punctures (4–5 mm) are sealed automatically by the sealant. If air does escape, simply keep riding so the sealant can do its job.

For larger holes, tubeless plugs help and reliably seal the puncture. If the damage is too large, you can always insert a spare tube and finish the ride.

A mini pump or CO₂ cartridge should therefore always be in your kit so you stay mobile even in case of a flat. Once you are back home, check the tire calmly, remove the plug if necessary, inspect the condition of the tire, and add fresh sealant so your tubeless system is fully ready for the next ride.

Better safe than sorry – what you should always carry:

Mini pump or CO₂ cartridge for reinflating after a puncture.
Tubeless plugs / repair kit such as the milKit Hassle’off for larger holes that the sealant cannot close by itself.
Spare tube in case the damage is too big or the tire no longer seals. Here we recommend the milKit TPU tube – light, but still extremely puncture-resistant.

Optional:

Tire lever
For removing the tire if necessary – included in the milKit Hassle’off
Multitool
For any small adjustments or repairs on the bike, also included in the milKit Hassle’off
Valve core tool
Helpful if you want to top up sealant or clean the valve – also included in the milKit Hassle’of

Get to know our milKit valve system

Some tubeless myths are true, because tubeless can quickly become a mess – at least with the wrong setup.

With the valve system from milKit, we have developed a solution that simplifies your tubeless life on multiple levels. But let’s go step by step.

Tubeless valves: at first glance, the milKit valves look like a normal Presta valve. On closer inspection, you’ll find rubber flaps at the lower end of the valve that ensure the air stays in the tire even if you unscrew the valve core. Another advantage: the valves no longer get clogged, because the rubber flaps act like a protective shield. This prevents sealant from flowing from the tire into the valve.

Easy installation: normally you fill sealant into the tire and then try to seat it on the rim hook. This can result in a real mess. With milKit, you first mount the tire dry. Once it is seated on the rim hook, you remove the valve core (air stays in the tire) and use the syringe system – consisting of syringe, flexible rotary valve and needle – to inject sealant directly through the valve shaft into the tire. Then you screw the valve core back in and inflate the tire to the desired pressure.

Measuring and topping up: it works the same way if you just want to quickly check how much sealant is still in the tire. First let out a bit of pressure (open the knurled nut fully and then press the valve head) – to about 1 bar. Then you unscrew the valve core, insert the syringe system through the valve into the tire, and open the rotary valve on the connector piece of the syringe. Now sealant flows from the tire into the syringe, where you can see how much is left. You still have enough sealant? Then simply inject it back. You want to add more? Draw up fresh sealant, insert the needle through the valve and inject the sealant into the tire. Important: please make sure the needle is clean before inserting it through the valve so no sealant gets into the valve shaft. Usually a paper towel or an old rag is enough.

Advantages summarized:

Valves no longer get clogged
Measure and top up sealant without removing the tire
Huge time savings and no unnecessary frustration

The 35 mm version (usable length) is sufficient for most common rims. For higher rim profiles we recommend 45 mm, 55 mm or 75 mm.

It’s best to check the rim height given by the wheel or rim manufacturer and add about 10–15 mm. This ensures the valve sticks out far enough and the pump can be attached easily.

milKit works with all common rim and tire sizes, including wheels in sizes 26″, 650B and 29″ as well as road, mountain and city bikes.

The standard milKit valves have a usable length of 35 mm and are therefore long enough for most common rims. For deep-section rims we offer valves in 45 mm, 55 mm and 75 mm.

The milKit valves are not compatible with Schwalbe Clik valves. This is due to the way the milKit valves are designed. Specifically, it is the interaction between the rubber flaps and the valve core extension that makes compatibility with Schwalbe Clik valves impossible.

Purpose of the valve core extension: it enables airflow in the valve (inflate, deflate) by opening the rubber flaps at the end of the valve. This makes it possible to measure and top up sealant through the valve – without removing the tire.

Yes, we offer the milKit valve cores (with valve core extensions) free of charge as replacement products, so you can add them to your next order. Tubeless made easy!

The milKit valve system can be used on mountain bikes, road bikes, gravel bikes and city bikes. We recommend using tubeless-ready tires and rims to achieve the best possible performance and reliability.

The milKit valve core has an additional extension that presses open the rubber flaps at the lower end of the valve when deflating.

Letting air out while riding is therefore just as easy as usual. You can find a detailed explanation in this video.

It’s possible that in your case a thin layer of sealant has formed around the rubber flaps and is preventing proper inflation. But don’t worry — this isn’t a big problem.

Solution: unscrew the knurled nut as far as possible and press the valve head a few times so the valve extension breaks through the thin sealant layer. Then try inflating again. To ensure the layer is fully broken, you can slightly shake or twist the valve while pressing.

In this video you can see exactly how to do it.

The milKit valves have closed rubber flaps at the bottom of the valve. This brings the following advantages:

No more valve clogging
Air stays in the tire even without an installed valve core (easier tubeless installation)
Measuring and topping up sealant without deflating the tire

To get the most out of the milKit system, milKit valves are required. The valves and syringe system are precisely matched to one another - only this combination ensures the system works flawlessly.

Yes, you can.

The rubber flaps in the milKit valve form a protective layer so no sealant gets into the valve. Still, in rare cases sealant can get into the valve shaft, clog there, and cause airflow problems. This usually happens if the needle was not cleaned before insertion and sealant was still stuck to it. That’s why it’s important to always clean the needle thoroughly before inserting it into the valve. In this case, you need to clean the valve or get a new valve core in the right size.

It can also be that a sealant layer has simply formed over the valve flaps. In this case, unscrew the knurled nut completely and press the valve core inward — and feel free to wiggle it slightly — so that the layer breaks and air can flow again.

In this video you can see exactly how to do it.

Everything about sealant

Sealant should be replaced regularly in the tire. Depending on the manufacturer, replacing the sealant every 2–6 months is recommended.

For the Original Sealant and the Road and Gravel Sealant from milKit, we recommend checking the sealant after about 3 months. With the milKit valve system, this can be done in no time and without removing the tire.

The sealant is still liquid but there is no longer the recommended amount in the tire: Top up sealant.

If the sealant has dried out significantly and little to nothing can be extracted, remove the tyre and clean it thoroughly, then add the recommended amount of fresh sealant. This ensures both the quantity and quality of the sealant are correct.
To avoid having to remove the tyre and clean it manually, make sure to replace the sealant while it is still reasonably fluid - quickly and cleanly using the milKit valve system.

Temperature plays a major role in the lifespan of your tubeless sealant. In summer, the sealant can dry out faster due to higher temperatures. This is especially important for road cyclists or gravel riders who spend a lot of time riding on heated surfaces (asphalt exposed to sunlight). Under such conditions, you should top up earlier to ensure full functionality.

In winter, the sealant generally lasts longer, but over time it can become slightly thicker — especially if the bike remains unused for an extended period. In this case as well, replacing the sealant is recommended to maintain full performance.

How often you need to renew your tubeless sealant also depends on your personal riding style. Riders who spend a lot of time off-road and therefore experience more small punctures that need sealing will naturally consume more sealant.

Important: especially with new tires, it is common for the casing to initially “absorb” some sealant. For this reason, it is recommended to check the amount after the first ride and top it up if necessary.

Since the sealant is water-based, both the Original Sealant and the Road and Gravel Sealant can be diluted with water. For the Original Sealant, no more than 30% water should be added. For the Road and Gravel Sealant, we recommend adding no more than 15% water.

Please note that diluting the sealant affects its performance — the sealing capability decreases the more water is added.

The shake test: If the correct amount of tubeless sealant is in the tire, you can actually hear a slight sloshing sound. However, if you don’t have a trained ear, you can play it safe.

With the milKit valve system, you can not only top up your sealant completely mess-free, you can also easily check the sealant level. This way you are always on the safe side. We show you how it works here.

A practical rule of thumb: If you ride frequently several times a week, you should do a check at least every 3 months. Regular use consumes the sealant more evenly, but also faster.

Occasional riders usually get 4–6 months out of one fill, but should pay particular attention to the sealant hardening.

Seasonal riders are best off replacing the sealant completely before each new season and starting with fresh sealant.

A new tire usually requires more sealant because the casing initially absorbs part of it. The inside of the tire is still dry and not yet coated with a sealing film, which is why sealant is drawn into the pores almost unnoticed.

Note: For this reason, the recommended amount of sealant in the tire should correspond to the amount that remains in the tire after the first ride.

Therefore, always check the sealant after the first ride with a new tire and top it up if necessary. With the milKit valve system, this only takes a few moments — without any mess and without removing the tire. Here you can see how it works.

After installation, you might ask yourself: “Is it really holding?” There are a few simple tests to check whether your tire is sealing reliably.

Visual inspection:
Check the tire sidewall: Is the tire seated evenly in the rim hook, without waves or bulges?

Bubble test:
Apply a little soapy water to the tire sidewalls and spoke holes. If small bubbles appear, air is escaping somewhere.

Sound & pressure test:
A hissing sound indicates a leak. After inflating, press the tire firmly. If it immediately becomes noticeably softer, it is not fully sealed yet.

Sealant distribution:
After the first inflation, shake and rotate the tire vigorously, ideally holding it horizontally and turning it in all directions. This ensures the sealant spreads everywhere. Then take a short test ride (1–2 km), which helps a lot: the sealant distributes itself and seals micro-pores.

Pressure check:
Note the air pressure after inflating. Check again after a few hours or overnight: only a slight pressure loss (0.2–0.5 bar) is normal. For this reason, check the tire pressure before every ride and pump it up slightly if necessary. If the pressure drops significantly, find the leak and top up sealant if needed. Also check whether the tire is properly seated in the rim hook.

Follow-up check:
Especially with new tires: check the sealant again after the first ride. Many tires — particularly new ones — initially “drink” some sealant, as it seeps into the pores. You may need to top it up.

Note: On every milKit sealant bottle you will find recommendations for how much sealant is required for each tire type. This amount should still be inside the tire after the first ride.

Pro tip:
With systems like the milKit valve system, this can be checked very easily without removing the tire.

Recommended sealant amounts for milKit sealant:

Road / Gravel: 60–80 ml
26” MTB: 60–80 ml
27.5” MTB: 80–100 ml
29” MTB: 100–120 ml
32” MTB: 110–140 ml

Important:

These amounts should still be present in the tire after the first ride. New tires often “absorb” sealant at the beginning because the casing is not yet coated with a sealing film and the sealant seeps into the pores – often unnoticed.

Therefore, when installing a new tire, fill slightly more generously. After the first ride, always check the sealant level and top up if necessary.

Basically, this can only be confirmed with certainty once the tire is opened and the typical rubber-like clumps are found inside. However, if you already hear a dull knocking or a wobbling thumping sound while riding slowly, this is a clear sign that the sealant has clumped.

Light vibrations — caused by clumps moving around inside the tire — are also an indicator that the sealant should be serviced as soon as possible.

If there is enough fresh sealant in the tire, you will usually hear a typical sloshing sound.

In short: clumped sealant is a sign that the system is no longer functioning reliably. This can occur with many manufacturers, but not with milKit. With regular checks and the right sealant, your tubeless setup will remain clean and reliably sealed over time.

Background: when tubeless sealant clumps, it loses its effectiveness and can no longer reliably seal holes or pores. In this case, the only solution is to open the tire, carefully remove the old sealant residue, and refill with fresh sealant. Particularly stubborn clumps can be loosened with warm water or isopropanol. It is important that the rim, tire, and valve are clean and dry again before adding new sealant.

With milKit sealant, you don’t need to worry about this: it is formulated so that it does not harden into rubber clumps but remains elastic even when dried out and does not form solid “balls” that roll around inside the tire. This makes maintenance much easier and prevents residue from getting stuck in the valve or rim.

Depending on the sealant used, cleaning can be easier or more difficult. In general, sealant that has not yet firmly set can be cleaned off quite easily with water and a sponge or brush.

Dried sealant can be softened with warm water — after that it can usually be removed manually. For particularly stubborn clumps, it is recommended to use isopropanol or a special sealant remover.

It is important that the rim, tire, and valve are clean and dry again before adding fresh sealant.

We recommend first allowing the sealant to dry completely by pouring any liquid residue onto a piece of cardboard or paper. Once dried, the material behaves similarly to rubber and can easily be disposed of with household waste / residual waste.

The same applies to larger amounts of sealant — please do not pour it down the drain while it is still liquid. In this case as well, it is recommended to let the sealant dry first in a bowl or container before disposing of it with residual waste.

If you want to be particularly careful, sealant can also be taken to a local recycling center and disposed of as non-hazardous chemical waste.

In general, we do not recommend mixing two different sealants — especially if they are from different brands. This often results in a mixture that does not perform optimally and can lead to unwanted residue or contamination inside the tire.

Both products - milKit Original Sealant and milKit Road & Gravel Sealant - share the same base components, which means mixing them is technically possible. However, each sealant is individually formulated to achieve its optimal balance of liquid and particles on its own. Mixing the two disrupts this balance, which is why we recommend sticking to one sealant at a time.

Optimized particles for high pressures:
The Road & Gravel sealant contains specially tuned particles that reliably seal even at higher tire pressures. This is particularly important for narrower road and gravel tires.

More fluid formulation for longer durability:
The milKit Road & Gravel sealant is formulated to be slightly more fluid. This allows it to remain functional in the tire for longer and prevents it from drying out as quickly. Especially at high temperatures and on hot road surfaces — which tend to accelerate the drying of sealant — this is a major advantage.

Do you have questions about our Tubeless Booster?

The required pressure in the booster depends heavily on the rim and tire combination and on whether the tire has already been installed before or not.

With 6 bar, it usually only works with good rim–tire combinations or with tires that were previously installed.

With 8 bar, most tires can be inflated without problems, and only in a few extreme cases are the full 11 bar required.

The milKit Booster can be used with any Presta valve. milKit valves have the advantage (in addition to allowing you to measure and refill sealant without letting air out of the tire) that the air remains in the tire even without the valve core installed — which makes inflating with the booster much more efficient and easier.

Presta valves with external threads that do not extend all the way to the top of the valve stem reduce the efficiency of the milKit Booster.

The milKit Tubeless Booster is only used to pre-inflate the tire so that it sits on the rim and holds air. After that, you have enough time to use the milKit syringe to inject sealant through the milKit valve into the tire, which is under slight pressure, screw the valve core back in, and inflate the tire to full pressure until it fully pops into place on the rim.

If the tire does not hold air well after pre-inflating with the booster, you can first screw the valve core back in and inflate the tire to full pressure until it fully seats on the rim. Then reduce the air pressure again to below 1.5 bar to add the sealant into the tire.

The milKit Booster can be used with or without the valve core installed. However, removing the valve core allows for a much more efficient airflow, and we recommend always removing the valve core.